Lava Beds National Monument, CA

Lava Beds National Monument is a land with a rich geological and human history. Volcanic eruptions during the last half-million years have created a rugged and diverse volcanic landscape.

Devils Homestead

Lava Flow along the Edge of a Butte

Consequently, this area of high desert wilderness is filled with more than 800 caves, lava flows, and the highest known concentration of lava tubes in the United States. From a human perspective, it contains Native American rock art and historic battlefields.

Closer View of a Lava Bed

Mammoth Crater

After a walk up a short incline from the parking lot, you are immediately greeted by the spectacular Mammoth Crater. The crater is impressive physically and in its historical impact as it is the origin of the basalt that covers more than 70 percent of the national monument's surface area.

Mammoth Crater

Bottom of the Crater

From the crater, I followed a 2-mile trail through the surrounding landscape dotted with lava rocks.

Rocky Outcropping

Trail Goes over Lava Rock

Closer View of Lava Rock

For considerable distances in almost any direction, I could see the various volcanic features of the national monument.

Cinder Cone beyond a Burned Area

While the landscape was mostly brown and yellow, a dash of brighter colors did appear here and there.

Fernbrush

Wavyleaf Paintbrush

Captain Jack's Stronghold

The Modoc War began in the Fall of 1872 after the U.S. Army tried to force Modoc Indians back to the reservation. In early December, about 60 Modoc warriors, their families, and their leader, Captain Jack, made their way to this site.

The jagged landscape formed a natural fortress and was difficult to navigate in general.

Rough Terrain

Natural Funnel

Rows of Walls

Seemingly Impenetrable

In some places, the flow of the lava rock created passageways through which one could travel while being protected on either side.

Narrow Aisle

Multiple Passageways

Additionally, the Modoc Indians built inner and outer positions from which to defend themselves.

Walled Bastion

Remnant of Defensive Position

The Modocs withstood two major assaults but were forced from this location in April 1873 after the army severed their access to water at Tule Lake which used to extend all the way to the edge of this area.

While standing amidst this chapter in history and trying to imagine what it must have been like, I also observed the natural surroundings from an aesthetic viewpoint. I found the shapes and sizes of the lava rock interesting.

Buckled Lava

Wrinkled Lava

I was captivated by the view of Mount Shasta to the southwest. And I did my best not to disturb some deer I came across after climbing to a high point in the undulating terrain.

Mount Shasta

Four Deer

Heppe Ice Cave

I was surprised by just how many caves exist in the area. Most were formed after a lava flow stops, the hot liquid inside drains out, and portions of the hardened ceiling collapse under their own weight. I was not able to explore any of their interiors as I do not carry the proper gear needed to safely access and explore most of them.

Heppe Cave

Closer View

In addition to the cave itself, the area around it was filled with interesting sights.

A Field of Short Burned Trees

Oddly Shaped Tree

This plant was the most prolific of desert flora and could be found everywhere within the national monument.

Yellow Rabbitbrush

Fleener Chimneys

These chimneys, the deepest being about 50 feet, were formed as lava spewed up from a vertical conduit and thickened clots of lava spattered higher and higher over the opening.

Fleener Chimneys

Individual Chimney Mound

Unfortunately, visitors over the years have mostly filled the chimneys by tossing in rocks and debris (likely to see how deep they are).

Safety Rails around the Chimney Entrance

Chimney Entrance
(could be the one from which they removed 35 tons of debris in the 1990s)

Partially Filled Chimney

Schonchin Butte

This is one of many cinder cones on the flanks of Medicine Lake Volcano and throughout Lava Beds National Monument.

Schonchin Butte

It is named for Old Schonchin, a chief of the Modoc people during the late 19th century.

Another Side of Schonchin Butte